The cosmetic reformulations imposed by recent European regulations are reshuffling the beauty routine cards. Understanding these changes allows for the adaptation of daily habits with products whose compositions evolve, sometimes profoundly, without sacrificing the performance of makeup or skincare.
Ban on PFAS in cosmetics: what changes for long-lasting makeup
Law No. 2025-188, effective January 1, 2026, prohibits the manufacture, import, and marketing of cosmetics containing PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) in France. The thresholds set align with the upcoming European REACH restriction text.
The product categories most affected are long-lasting foundations, waterproof mascaras, “blur” formulas, and certain sunscreens. These compounds ensured film-forming hold, smoothing effects, and water resistance.
Several brands are already transitioning to non-fluorinated polymers and micronized mineral powders. The result differs: maintaining twelve-hour wear without touch-ups becomes more challenging without PFAS, necessitating a review of the application technique.
A spray fixer applied in a thin layer after foundation partially compensates for the loss of longevity. The trick is to layer a mattifying base and a veil of loose powder rather than relying solely on the product’s formula.
To delve deeper into new products and ongoing reformulations, you can visit the Beauty Girl website, which lists brands committed to this transition.
Fragrance allergens: new labeling and impact on facial care choices
Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 expands the list of fragrance allergens subject to individual declaration from 26 to over 80 substances. This extension will be implemented in phases, with deadlines starting in 2026 for new market entries.
Cosmetic labels will become significantly longer. For the informed consumer, this is an opportunity: it becomes possible to precisely identify an allergen responsible for a reaction where the previous generic mention “fragrance” provided no actionable information.
In practice, we recommend photographing the INCI list of each new facial care product or moisturizer before purchase. Comparing this list with that of a previously well-tolerated product allows for quick isolation of a suspect ingredient. Reactive skin benefits from prioritizing formulas labeled “fragrance-free” rather than “hypoallergenic,” a term that lacks any binding regulatory definition.
Lip and complexion makeup tips after reformulations
The gradual disappearance of PFAS in long-lasting lipsticks alters the product’s behavior on the lips. New formulas based on plant waxes and film-forming oils offer superior comfort but migrate more. Two technical gestures make a difference:
- Apply a lip liner over the entire lip surface (not just the outline) to create a gripping base that limits pigment transfer
- Apply a first layer of lipstick, blot with a tissue, then apply a second thin layer, which anchors the color in the natural creases of the lips
- Finish with a translucent pressed powder through a tissue on the lips, a technique borrowed from stage makeup and remarkably effective on PFAS-free formulas
On the complexion side, reformulated foundations require a more generous prior hydration. Well-hydrated skin retains pigments better, compensating for the reduced adherence of the new bases. A hyaluronic acid serum applied three minutes before foundation visibly improves wear without weighing down the texture.
Hair and scalp care: active ingredients to watch with the restriction of microplastics
The European Union is gradually restricting intentionally added microplastics in cosmetics. Shampoos, conditioners, and hair masks containing polyethylene microbeads or solid silicone particles are subject to staggered deadlines.
Alternatives based on microcrystalline cellulose or rice powder replace synthetic exfoliating agents in scalp scrubs. Their granularity, less uniform than that of plastic microbeads, requires a gentler application to avoid micro-injuries.
For daily hair care, the transition results in slightly different textures. Reformulated conditioners rinse out faster but sometimes leave a less “silky” feel after showering. A cold water rinse at the end of the routine closes the cuticle scales and restores much of that smooth sensation.
Daily beauty routine: adapting habits to new compositions
Cumulative regulatory changes are altering the very logic of routines. Rather than seeking the miracle product that does it all, the technical trend is shifting towards a layering of thin layers with complementary functions.
- Cleanse with a balm or cleansing oil (first step, dissolves reformulated sunscreen filters that cling more to the skin)
- Hydrate with a watery serum before any makeup application to compensate for the reduced adherence of PFAS-free formulas
- Protect with a mineral SPF if the skin reacts to the newly reformulated organic filters, accepting a slight white cast compensated by foundation
This layering approach requires a few extra minutes but offers a more stable result throughout the day. Hybrid skincare-makeup products remain an option, provided their updated INCI list is checked against the new allergen labeling.
The regulatory evolution is pushing the market towards greater transparency. The beauty routines that will work best in the coming months will be those that combine mastered application techniques and careful reading of compositions, two skills that the proliferation of information on labels now makes accessible to all.
